WEST DHAULAGIRI UPPER Trek

Author: Khatri, Man Bd. ([email protected])

After the exploration of the West Dhaulagiri Lower in between Myagdi River and Thuli Bheri, Sisne Trek and Dhorpatan Cultural Trek give me concept to join routes to the base camps of different Mountain.After these treks borroweda lot of wishes for me to explore them then in September, leaving all other works I started its exploration under a small budget and, with strong determination I kept few gas  and, food  in sang khola fedi  so that I can pick up if  there is  necessary in the middle of Exploration. TheSeptember 3rd took my journey towards Gurja Khani second time. At this place I had warm welcome from my previously known friends,the place which I had visited earlier. Here, I received an opportunity to speak a little about West Dhaulagir with the workshop performed by the local Agriculture Co- operative body. I also metone brother, Mr. Nar Bahadur Chhantyal and spoke about the Churen Base Camp& West Putha Base Camp. He was along with me on the journey for 3 days and, had suggested me not go ahead more but, when I had already planned for it, I couldn't stop myself. On his request I helped him early morning to return back along with river to Lamsar Khola.We met sheep coming from Baglung and Rolpa and were immobilized, had bandaging of the leg of but she was not crying. I asked the shepherd if why she is not crying he told methat in the ancient centuries their ancestorshad promised that even they got killed by other they don't cry and, here she is obeying ancestor'spromise. In the same way, I also motivated my exploration team to become more responsible with theirpromises in life.After having lunch together with the local shepherds, we just got separated from each other. Then I ascended the way along with the shepherds at 12 pm. Due to the mist and fogs from 12 pm, I stopped my journey at 4 pm and, spend that night at once point of the hill in the cave. As the water was available nearby my stay atnight, it made stay a little easy but, the loneliness of me made me little scare although it was not to worry against wild creatures at this 4200 m ht but, with the religious concept of hinduism listened during childhood that a single male at a lonely place can be false friend of a daayan and felt a little afraid at the lonely place. But, I had gas cylinder and fire so, I thought myself not to be afraid during this night.It's a tradition in Hinduism that fire is such an element that frees us from any kinds of spiritual energies. It was a time of monsoon.So, the dense mist was present for late hours of the day. Finally, when the mist was clear I was able to see Dogari and Putha mountains then I carried my bag and started to walk. On the way due to the dense mists and fogs, my GPS also didn't work properly but, only after 1 or 2 hours of walk since little hills and pass was visible and, by the use GPS Compass I started to move forward. Besides various obstacles on my way I moved onwards and, although reached 5200 m when could not find pass whileleading my path towards north. Far away, I reached greenery snowy lake at base of solder ofmountain where I felt that I have been in wrong direction. So, I changed my direction to descend towards south- west and reached at small smooth land. Here, while going onward, I could go more downwards & more tired where my mission towards Dogari in the west to reach snowy- riveror glacier and toward Samjang could not be met. I realizedit too. Very quickly the snowy rain started to rain and I took support ofa big stone for 1 or 2 hours and keeping my bag at this big stone, inorder to see glacier of Dogari sub Galicer, I ascended up again. After walking for more about 45 minutes when I found the glacier of Dogari I really thanked God doing this favor for me in this difficult time at unknown place then when the tendency of receiving mist & fog was much higher I returned at aplace towards my bag. Finally I suffered again; I could not find my bag, the same place where I left my bag. After half an hour I found my bag then I found myself easy because, I had everything in my bag; the tent, portable gas, the foods.  Another food, the maize grains and water were only with me which I received while ascending up. Afterreceiving my bag I decided to stay night at the Dogari Glacier and pinchedtent at the side of the lake for the night. Next day, I woke up an had hot water and satu (a sweet powder), I moved towards west and reached on 4800 mof pass and walked samjhang river downwards& from the next side of Glacier and the Dogari river, we also saw pastureland With a thinking to stay at Pasturelands. I moved forward but, as the rocky hill started I became little confused. Afterwards, Idiscovered a walking path of Himalayan Nawar (Himalayan Dear). Receiving crystal at the low land of Dogari, I received a feeling really of apositive energy and, the path of Nawar (Himalayan Dear)which helped me to reach pastureland in 2 hrs easilyjust gave hundreds of thanks to God. I decided to stay at the shed (Bhedakogoth) of sheep on pasture land. Then on the next day, I concluded/read from the Topographic Map and the Google Map that if I can cross one pass I could reach Sangkhola Bagar River but, the pass that I was expecting was consideredmistakenly towards south. As my shoe had torn out, I descended along the side of Sang kholaRiver and, towards low land. Arriving Sang khola river River on time but not Sangkhola Bager,I was not  happy by  mistake, but I was also not disappoint  because  the main point from where one can reach Dolpa. Then, here we stayed in the hotel being run inside local tents. I requested a local herbal merchant, Mr. Bijay Punto get for me a shoe from Dule. Eventually, he was able to find a shoe for me then we returned back the same way to same Pastureland   where we decided to spend night here only in the shed of sheep. But, in the mid- way due to periodic mists and fogs, we got uncertain to walk forward. Also, while taking track tally on GPS as going closer to the pond we seemed descending towards South- east then once again started to search for previously walked path and spent that night in the another  cave. Next day woke up early and taking the previously walked path and found the point at which I made a wrong turn. Now, attempting to cross pass at the height we moved forward and crossing difficult pass on time reached Syangbagar and towards Bhanjila on time and reaching this place we enjoyed our time by cooking meat of sheep. Bijay departed from us at this place. Then we found another herbal merchant, resident of Dailekh to go sundaha till another border to Dolpa. From Jangala, walking alongside of the canal we moved towards West and crossing difficult pass we reached Sundaha at around 2 pm. It would was good to stay night here but, when that herbal merchant hadn't time more than 3 days, we were to walk lonely and crossing small lowlands we reached at  seasonal rivulet where we had no water. At the peak of the south hill a chhorten being built by the herbal collector was seen and we moved towards it. We crossed chhorten when we were unable to find even the water anywhere then our journey became difficult for us. But, I had a bottle of water to have along with uncooked instant noodles and biscuits and stayed night taking support of one small stone and, on the next day after walking for half of an hour, we found water and cooked food then suddenly saw a tent in the north- west, expecting of the place where man could be staying there, we moved towards it and met few adult herbal merchants. With them making small chats, we crossed Chauri Pass then took paths from west of Dolpa at the nap of Shangri towards Dwari Pass nearly at 2 pm along with the merchant of Ramechhap. Then from here both brothers (merchants) took their own way to Dolpa and I walked towards Sisne village of Rukum alone. 1.5 hours before reaching Sisne Village as my bag was heavy I had opened tent and had spent night on the way. I had little fear because of the dense forest wild animals. The next morning I moved towards Sisne Village and reached Sisne at 8.5 Am. On the first expedition of SisneI had stayed at the same place so, some brothers and friends welcomed me hugely. Taking bath and wash after a long time, I took rest till 3 Pm. Now, thinking in the mind to reach Gupta Daha and till Shyarpu Lake, we were to stay night at a place called Jarsadi just before Okhreni, where we knew the family members very well, also had fine time with them. On the next morning following Okhreni we reached Gupta Daha and in the middle we drank milk of a local Himalayan buffalo and I felt as if I am like a roaming shepherd. Since the water of small lake seemed impure, we fetched water from the big Gupta Daha and spend night in the shed. On the next day, taking snaps of Sisne mountain and Gupta Daha I again moved towards west with a view to reach Shyarpu Lake but due to smaller paths and at once mists & fogs, I got lost in the jungle and stayed at the summit of a hill then after sometimes a hunter arrived close to me making noise who guided me a little to know about that place and then along with water I stayed night at one pass on my way. Suddenly a big rain arrived, where I kept my pot under the rain to collect water because, I had very little water. Then with the same water being collected I had eaten instant noodles and other dry foods too and got slept that night. On the next day, I again ascended towards Jangethala and, taking crossing away jungle bushes I reached at the junction of Nipane and Gajepakha shayarpu. Straightly taking Nipane to reach Shyarpu rather than taking straight to Gajipaka – Shyarpu Lake but, I lost at the next junction because, we had many paths to follow. Fogs confuses so often on the tracks, the hills, the only sound from canals at some far distance is heard and finally, with luck once again met the hunter whom we had spent time and stay in a shed of sheep. On then on the next day, I reached Nepani. Also, coming to meet by family relation, it was my aunty's house and, his son working in the field of Tourism journalist, I had arrived at 8 pm and stayed here only, which always provide a feeling of love equal to their own son at every time instead of staying at Thuma before to reach Nepani. Taking yogort with bamboo soft shoot (vegetable) after a long time my body was shivering from inside because, I had reached Nipane after a long period of 26 days. On the next early morning descending down for about half of an hour, I reached the Shyarpu Lake  then taking many snaps of the lake I finally reached nearby my own village Lochabang and my journey completed over here. As soon as I arrived home, my mom cried for me because, my lips and face were dried by adverse climate, the fingers were filled up with pus, restlessness over the whole body but anyway, my mission was successfully completed and, I was very happy from the depth of my heart!!

* Promote West, Promote Nepal!